Telling the difference between warranty and non-warranty
We offer limited, but reasonable warranty coverage on “Normal Wear” parts that are defective from factory. In other words, anything that fails or breaks as the result of a manufacturer's defect. Please refer to your owner’s manual for the complete terms of warranty.
Now, let’s define reasonable:
Bicycles are sometimes subjected to considerably more stress than they were designed for. In some cases, they're ridden in ways that push the envelope of their capabilities, and or the riders for that matter. As with all bicycling sports, an element of discretion is an absolute must. Those failing to exercise good discretion commit to the risks associated in failing to do so -- it’s really that simple!
A couple of examples would be:
- You decide to take that corner a little too fast and dump the bike resulting in cosmetic damage. Well… You can’t ‘reasonably’ expect us to cover that under warranty since it had nothing to do with the manufacturing process.
- You decide to break out the video cameras to capture the jump a lifetime, but “taco” your wheel in doing so. Again, you can’t ‘reasonably’ expect to compensate for that. You took a chance and got unlucky…
- In an attempt to be super cool, you try to land a Flair one too many times and you’ve toasted the fork. You don’t expect us to compensate you for that, do you?
Suffice it to say, if you’re going to torture “any” machine, things are going to break prematurely. Therefore, you should be as equally as enthusiastic about ‘fixing stuff’ as you were breaking it!
So here’s what the manufacturer's warranty will not cover
Manufacturer's limited warranty does not cover accidents, impact, abuse, misuse, neglect, ordinary wear & tear, anything you break accidentally or deliberately, stunting, jumping, improper assembly, improper maintenance, theft, or ride with more than one person.
But how do you know the difference between abuse and a defect?
Because we’re smart, that’s how! But seriously though, we’ve been in bicycle industry for a very long time. When you invest this many hours into design, repairs, and modifications, it becomes easier to recognize the difference between a defective part, and a machine that’s had the living daylights beaten out of it.
Thinking of modifying anything?
Any modifications made to your bicycle will void the warranty. Can you imagine trying to warranty bikes that people have modified? Please don’t, or if you must, do so when the warranty runs out.
You may return defective parts at your expense and we’ll send you a replacement part at our expense. Depending on the seriousness of the failure, we may ask for a picture of the part/s in question, and to also verify warranty information. Once the warranty claim is approved, we’ll send the replacement part(s). If the required part(s) are not in stock and must be ordered, an estimated delivery time will be given. We reserve the right to make substitutions of equal or greater value at our sole discretion.
How to file a warranty claim
With today's technology, the fastest way to file a warranty claim is to take a digital photo of your bike & broken part and email it to us at email@example.com. Please include your name, address, phone number, model number, date code, date & place of purchase with a brief description of the incident. We'll review your photos and see if we can determine the cause or nature of the problem. If we can, we'll make a decision on your claim. If we can't tell from the photos, then we'll ask you to send the affected part in. Please refer to your owner's manual for complete details on filing a warranty claim
How to purchase replacement parts
Call us to purchase parts - you'll need a major credit card and must be 18 or older.
Why did my derailleur go into the spokes?
When your derailleur goes into your spokes it may not only destroy your frame, but it may end up destroying your wheel, derailleur, and derailleur cable and housing. In really bad cases it will destroy your chain as well.
So why does it happen and what causes it?
The answer is rarely maladjustment. Unless you or someone has been fooling around with your hi and low adjustment screws on the rear derailleur.
The most likely cause is a bent derailleur hanger. The derailleur hanger is the piece of the frame that the derailleur screws into.
Sometimes the hanger is removable and replaceable, but not on all bicycles.
When the derailleur hanger gets bent it misaligns the whole derailleur system. This is usually exhibited by sudden poor shifting behavior. In most cases the derailleur hanger and the derailleur gets bent in towards the wheel.
The problem may not seem serious until you shift into your lowest gears with the rear derailleur. If the derailleur hanger is bent in, this shift will drive the lower pulley of the rear derailleur right into the spokes of the rear wheel followed by a lot of bent metal and sometimes expensive repair.
So why does the derailleur hanger get bent?
When you crash or lay your bike down roughly on the drive side (right side) of the bike it can easily hit the derailleur and bend the hanger.
So how do you stop this from happening?
First, try not to lay the bike down on the drive side. Second, if you crash or if your shifting is suddenly behaving poorly, slowly shift your bike into the low gears near the spokes while not on the bike. Check to make sure the lower derailleur pulley is not too close to the spokes. If it is really close it may go in over a bump or under harder pedaling.
If your hanger is bent, you will need to go to a shop to get it bent back into place or replaced. For bicycles that do not have a replaceable hanger, you’ll need to replace your frame.
Since the damage is usually a result of an impact, this would not be considered a manufacturing defect (a deficiency in materials or workmanship).
My bicycle doesn't shift gears
This fix is not always easy. It will probably require some practice, but the results and satisfaction will be worth it. Most bicycles these days have 24 or more speeds, achieved by mounting 3 sprockets at the pedals and 8 or more at the rear wheel (3 x 8 = 24 speeds). Shifting is controlled by levers at the handlebars, connected by cables to the front and rear derailleurs. The derailleurs--devices through which the bike's chain passes--move from side to side to shift the chain from one sprocket to the next. There are only two factors that affect the derailleur's function: cable tension and derailleur alignment.
Difficulty: Moderately challenging
Things You'll Need: Set Of Allen (hex) Wrenches, Small Phillips Screwdriver
Adjusting cable tension
- Begin by inspecting each shift lever. These are usually located directly on the handlebars. On older bicycles, they are sometimes attached to the frame, immediately below the handlebars. If there is a screw securing the lever, be sure it's tight and that the lever stays in whatever position it's set in. If you're lucky and deserving, this will fix the problem. Take the bike for a test spin to find out.
- Find, on the front derailleur, the cable coming from the handlebar. The front derailleur is attached to the frame, just above the front gears. At the derailleur, use an Allen (hex) wrench to undo the nut or bolt that secures the cable.
- Using only your hand, pull the cable taut (pulling with pliers creates too much tension). While holding the cable taut, resecure the cable with the nut or bolt.
- Repeat steps 2 and 3 for the rear derailleur. The rear derailleur is attached to the frame and hangs just below the rear gears.
- Shift through all the gears while riding the bike to check your adjustment. If shifting is still not perfect, you'll need to adjust the derailleur alignment.
Adjusting derailleur alignment
- Have a helper lift the rear wheel of the bicycle slightly off the ground.
- Kneel beside the bike and turn the pedals slowly by hand. Using the shift lever, adjust the front derailleur so that it rests at about the midpoint of its movement range.
- If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the largest rear gear, locate the two small side-by-side adjustment screws on the rear derailleur. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn with a small Phillips screwdriver. If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, skip to step 6.
- Continue turning the pedals and shift through all the rear gears. If the chain will still not go onto the largest rear gear, shift the chain back down to the smallest rear gear. Turn the right (or lower) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle.
- Shift through the gears again to test. If necessary, turn the left (or upper) screw counterclockwise another quarter turn.
- If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, begin by turning the right (or lower) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn. Shift through the gears to test.
- If the chain still won't go onto the smallest rear gear, shift the chain to the largest rear gear. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle. Shift through all the gears to test.
- Follow steps 1 through 7 for the front derailleur, which operates on exactly the same mechanism as the rear derailleur (you still lift the rear wheel in step 1). There are two side-by-side
How do I fix a flat tire
A sharp object on the ground can penetrate the tire and puncture the inner tube, causing air to escape and leaving the rim vulnerable to damage. A rear tire is particularly susceptible to flats, due to the weight of the rider being placed directly over the tire. Fixing a flat yourself is a quick and cheap way to get your bicycle back on the road.
Things You'll Need: Adjustable wrench (as needed), Tire levers (set of three), Replacement inner tube
Tire and tube removal
- Shift the chain to the outermost gear combination. This will place the chain on the smallest rear sprocket and largest front chain ring.
- Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the rear wheel axle nuts. Newer models may feature an axle skewer with a quick-release. In this instance, no tools are required---simply open the release arm and loosen the nut on the other end.
- Elevate the rear wheel, and push it from behind to dislodge the axle from the frame. Remove the wheel from the bicycle.
- Insert the flat end of a tire lever beneath the bead of the tire and wrap the opposite, hooked end onto the nearest spoke. Be sure and work opposite the valve stem. The stem will be the last portion of inner tube removed from the wheel.
- Insert a second tire lever beside the first lever, mirroring Step 4.
- Insert the third, and final, lever on either side of the above pair, and slowly rotate the lever around the circumference of the tire bead. The first two levers will probably drop away from the tire. This is fine.
- Reach inside the tire, opposite the valve, and remove the inner tube from the tire. Again, the valve stem will be the last portion of the tube removed. Simply pull this from the hole in the rim.
Inner tube installation
- Remove the cap from the valve on the replacement inner tube. With your mouth, blow air into the valve. This will give the tube a little bit of shape, making installation easier.
- Insert the valve stem through the hole in the rim, and gradually work the tube onto the rim.
- Use your thumbs to fold the tire bead back onto the rim. Once the bead is in place, inspect the tire to make sure there is no inner tube showing anywhere.
- Inflate the tire at or slightly below the recommended PSI (pounds per square inch). The recommended PSI will be printed on the sidewall of the tire.
- Screw the valve stem cap onto the valve and insert the wheel back onto the bicycle. Check that the axle is firmly seated in the frame.
- Tighten each of the axle nuts. Alternatively (for bikes with quick-release skewers) tighten
Where can I get stickers or decals?
If you'd like some stickers for your helmet, locker, or forehead, please sent a self-addressed, stamped envelope to the address below. Please note, however, that we cannot fill requests for specific decals, specific colors, or specific models.
Attn: Sticker Guy
PO Box 344
Olney, IL 62450
How can I get a donation
Thanks for thinking of us! Unfortunately, due to the large number of requests for donations that we receive, there is only a small percentage that we're able to help with. If you'd like to submit your proposal for consideration, please send the request (on your organization's letterhead if possible) to Pacific Cycle, Attn: Donations PO Box 344 Olney, IL 62450
How do I find the weight of a bike?
Sorry, but our product development department doesn't publish an official list of bike weights. Other companies often release misleadingly low weights, which would make our true weights look falsely heavy by comparison. We encourage you, though, to have your dealer weigh any of our bikes on-site. If, on the other hand, you already have a bike and would like to know how much it weighs, you can easily get that information by weighing yourself holding the bike on a bathroom scale and subtracting your weight without the bike
How do I find the size of my bike?
You can find out your frame size by measureing the seat tube - start in the center of the crank and measure to the top of the seat tube (do not measure the seat post or seat).
Which size is right for me?
Use the sizing chart below to find the right sized mountain bike for you. Knowing your height and inseam measurements, you should be able to determine what size frame will be most comfortable for you. Of the two measurements, height and inseam, inseam is more important. Mountain bikes are generally measured in frame size (inches), which is the distance from the center of the crank to the top of the frame at the seat tube.
Use the sizing chart below to find the right sized road bike for you. Knowing your height and inseam measurements, you should be able to determine what size frame will be most comfortable for you. Of the two measurements, height and inseam, inseam is more important.
Where do I find the model or serial number of my bicycle?
The serial number is engraved into the metal frame of bicycles. The model number and date code can be found on a gray service sticker in the same general area
How do I register a product?
Use website to register or send in the registration page from the owner's manual
Where can I find touch up paint?
We do not stock touch-up paint or replacement decals. The paint used on our bikes does not work well in a brush-on application. The best option for touch-up paint is to use enamel-based model paint like Testors brand. There is a very wide array of colors and tones available with these types of paints, and they work very well for this type of application.
Our bikes are clear-coated upon production, eliminating the need for replacement decal sheets. If you choose to repaint your frame or you have an accident that damages the decals, we may be able to provide some Mongoose stickers, but we cannot provide original model-specific frame decals
Where can I get a manual or catalog?
You can find both our catalog and all owners’ manuals online at www.mongoose.com. If, however, you would like a hard copy of one or the other, please submit your mailing address to the e-mail contact at the top of this page. Please be aware, however, that (1) our catalog is for advertising purposes only and is not the kind of catalog you can order bikes or parts from, and (2) our manuals only provide basic safety and operational information, and are not intended to be a comprehensive service manual or specific to any one model of bike.
How do I become a dealer?
For information about becoming a Mongoose dealer in the US, please contact our national sales office at 1-800-THE-BIKE (843-2453).
If you’re interested in becoming an international distributor, please contact our international sales office at the address below. At this time, the international sales office is only considering mailed information.
Attn: International Sales
4902 Hammersley Rd
Madison, WI 53719